I just noticed that I can not use Chrome’s url field anymore to search on my blog as I did so far… Google is using now my blog’s search feature.. EXACTLY the opposite of my expectation!
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As explained here, I use my blog as a knowledge base to be searched using Google.
Concretely, if I want to find something like the processor used on my desktop (named Chaos), I used to type this in the url field of Chrome: beatificabytes chaos
As I am very used to the keyword suggestion feature of Chrome, as soon as I see that the suggestion seems to match what I am typing, I press ‘tab’ to auto-complete it.
Moreover, I use very often the url ‘beatificabytes.be’. So when I type ‘bea’ as a first keyword, I am suggested ‘beatificabytes.be’. I never had any problem with that as searching for ‘beatificabytes chaos’ or beatificabytes.be chaos’ used to be equivalent.
But since a few days, when I type ‘tab’ to auto-complete ‘bea’, my keyword is replaced by ‘Search beatificabytes.be’. And if I add a keyword like ‘Chaos’ behind that, Chrome is using the WordPress’ search feature of my blog instead of searching via Google. Obviously, the result is disappointing.
So, I have no choice but type now ‘beatificabytes’ after another keyword. The down side is that in such a case, I don’t have the auto-completion anymore on ‘bea’ 🙁
I recently bought a Yamaha YSP-3300 to play the sound/music issued from my devices (HTPC, TV-box, video game console) while transfering the video to my TV. Unfortunately, my HTPC has a GeForce 7600 Go, and using the most recent drivers available for that graphic card, I had no audio via HDMI. The only solution I found was to install a much older version of the NVIDIA graphic drivers.
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When I did upgrade my HTPC to Windows 8, the only compatible drivers were made available on LaptopVideo2go. It was a modified version of the NVIDIA setup package for Vista: the version 180.70 (to be found in the “Archived Releases” of LaptopVideo2Go : “18x Series” ).
But I had no audio via HDMI. I.e.: it was not working, whatever samples rates or audio format (Dobly, DTS, …) I was using and whatever audio drivers I was installing (Microsoft HD Audio or HD Realtek).
Notice that Audio via HDMI is definitively a feature of the graphic drivers! With the more recent versions of NVIDIA control Panel, there is an entry to enable audio via HDMI explicitly (or it is made clear when selecting the connector to the screen)
After an upgrade to Windows 8.1, I noticed that a version 307.68 of the NVIDIA drivers was automatically installed. But it also came without audio via HDMI either.
I finally found that the oldest NVIDIA drivers supporting audio via HDMI on my HTPC, whatever version of the audio drivers is installed (Microsoft or Realtek), was the version 173.90.
Notice: the version 174.16 is the last version to support audio via HDMI with the Microsoft HD Audio drivers. But Realtek HD Audio drivers come with some added value, reason why I stick to the version 173.90.
At the “Playback device” level, to get audio via HDMI, I had to select:
Either “Digital Audio (S/PDIF)” if using Microsoft HD audio drivers.
Or “Realtek Digital Output” if using Realtek HD Audio drivers.
Notice that unfortunately, under Windows 8.1, using any versions less or equal to 174.16 results in display issues:
IE starts to flicker when the mouse moves over the current page. This can be solved by enable software renderind instead of GPU rendering: go to “Internet Options” > “Advanced” > “Accelerated graphics” and tick the option “Use software rendering instead of GPU rendering”.
All tiles disappear from the Start Screen and it becomes impossible to “search” for files or apps anymore. This is not blocking for me as I did replace the Windows shell by Windows Media Center.
So, I will test those drivers under Windows 8 as soon as I have time to “downgrade” (concretely, reinstall the HTPC from scratch). But I am not expecting any improvement reason why I am already looking for a new HTPC…
I am pissed off by my current HTPC Acer iDEA 510… Too many issues with the video drivers, too slow for some heavy HD movies where many dots moves at the same times… I need a new one !
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After some research, the easiest solution will be to buy a barebone matching my requirements:
One HDMI 1.4 connector with audio support
Once HD Audio Controller
One placeholder for a SSD
One Gigabit Ethernet controller
One IR receiver for a Windows MCE remote.
An Intel above or equal to Core i3-3225
Low power consumption (<~5w when idle)
Low noise level (~30db when idle, ~40db at full load)
A barebone solution will be a bit easier than buying each parts separated (case, Motherboard, CPU, PSU, …).
The barbone being closest to my requirements is the Intel NUC D54250WYK. Its processor is however a core i5-4250U which is unfortunately not as powerful as a core i3-3225 (See here). But with its GPU HD Graphic 5000, it seems to be from far good enough to play HD movies based on technical reviews.
It has two SO-DIMM slots supporting up to 16 GB of 1600/1333 MHz 1.35V DDR3L memory. So, I will take 2 x 8Gb Corsair Vengeance CMSX16GX3M2B1600C9 DDR3L 1600 MHz CL9 (PC3-12800).
two USB 3.0 connectors on the front panel and two USB 3.0 connectors on the back panel.
two USB 2.0 ports and one SATA port inside but there are IMO useless as there is no place at all in that small case.
a consumer infrared sensor on the front panel
a 8-channel (7.1) digital audio via its HDMI 1.4a output or via its DisplayPort 1.2 connector.
At full load, it seems it will be a bit louder than I was expecting from my future HTPC (reported to produce ~44db), because it’s not a passive cooling. But it’s still really ok. And from the power point of view, it consumes less than 5 Watts when idle. Perfect !
Since many years, as soon as I was installing Realtek Drivers for my audio chipset on my PC, I had crackling sounds in my center speaker (only) when the PC was starting/stopping to play a sound (I use the Analog plugs). I had no such issue with the native Microsoft Drivers. I finally spent a few hours during those last days to try ALL the settings and found a trick to get rid of that issue : Enable the “Stereo Mix” feature of Realtek and mute it.
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As said above, I had no issue at all (even with volume very high) when playing sounds on my PC if I was using the native drives installed with Windows.
My Motherboard is an Asus P9X79 pro with a Realtek audio chipset.
As I had no such issue with my HTPC Acer Idea 510 (which also comes with a chipset Realtek), I wrote to Asus to get help on that issue (instead of contacting Realtek). They answered (as they always did for others requests I had in the past) that :
In this case it’s advisable to test the system with a different speaker set.
The Realtek driver utilizes the full potential of the audio card.
As a result it might be sending different types of signals that might nog be compatible/supported by the speakers resulting in a crackling sound.
I was using initially a Surround EAX System: the Inspire 6.1 from Creative. So, I did replace it with my Surround THX System, a Gigaworks G550W from Creative, that was in use without any issue on my HTPC. But the crackling sound didn’t disappear.
I read tips and tricks on probably more that 20 forum (not exaggerating) such as helpdeskgeek which was the most interesting. But without more success.
So, I decided to test ALL the possible settings and combination during hours and hours… And I think I finally found a solution. Don’t ask why it works but it does the trick 😀
Here is the configuration of my Speakers. Nothing here is important as the trick is not at that level, but I publish it anyway:
As far as the RealTek Drivers are installed, I use the HD Realtek Audio Manager to configure the speakers.
I have only a 5.1 system…
The cable of the Front Speakers is in the “Front” plug (seems obvious I presume)
The cable for the subwoofer and Center Speaker is in the “Ctr Bass” plug
I wanted to use the remaining speakers as rear speakers, But they don’t produce any sound if connected to the “Rear Spk” plug (whatever configuration I use : 5.1, 7.1, etc.. etc…) I had to plug them in the “Side Spk” plug. I presume the rear plug may only be used with 7.1 speaker systems.
However, I configured the speakers as a 7.1 system and unchecked the “rear pair” and as a result, I get sound from the rear speakers too. Concretely, when my PC play a sound for the side or the rear speakers, they both play in the speakers connected to the “Side Spk” plug
I am using Sound Effects, Room Correction and DTS Connect. But they don’t cause or stop the the crackling sound.
Easy way to reproduce the problem:
Open the Windows “Sound” panel:
Right click the “Windows Speaker” in the systray (not the “Realtek Speaker”)
Select “Playback Device”
Select the “Speakers” currently used as “Default Device” in the “Playback” tab
Click “Properties” to open to the “Speakers Properties” window
Now, click on the “Sound” window which is behind the “Speakers Properties” windows. As this last one is a modal dialog, you may not access the “Sound” window ans Windows plays a “beep”. In addition to the “beep” you ear an horrible crackling sound…
The trick:
Back to the “Sound” window you just open to reproduce the problem, go to the Recording tab
Select and Enable the “Stereo Mix”
Click “Properties” to access the “Stereo Mix Properties” window
In the “Listen” tab,
Check the option “Listen to this device”
Select “Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio)” in the list bellow that option
In the “Levels” tab, mute the speaker. This is important otherwise you will have “feedback”, which is not at all the purpose (It’s useful to capture some audio output as explained on HowToGeek)
“Apply” if the button is enabled
Now, reproduce the problem again. If the “Stereo Mix Properties” window is till open, simply click on the “Sound” window which is behind… You have a clear “beep” ? Gotcha !!!
Notice: I have not disabled ANY Playback device or Recording Device, such as the “Line In”, etc…
There is however a serious drawback. When “Stereo Mix” is enabled on “Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio)”, the desktop takes more than 30 seconds to be accessible (On Windows 8, the Start Screen appears immediately. The problem will only be experienced if one switch to the Destkop quick after the login). It seems to me that Windows Audio Service has difficulties (?) to start or wait on another service. The Windows Speaker appears disabled in the systray for 1 or 2 minutes before finally becoming enabled. It’s not blocking me as I don’t often reboot. Instead, I use the “Sleep” mode. I guess that the Audio Service actually wait on the Realtek Speakers/Drivers to be ready as this issue does no occur if one enables “Stereo Mix” on other speakers… People not switching immediately between the Start Screen and the Destkop won’t notice the issue.
Edit: 21/09/2014 I finally found the perfect solution:
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NB.: Many other Asustek’s users are reporting issues when connecting the Surround Speaker Pair on the Rear Speaker Jack in a “5.1 setup”. They don’t have any sound coming out of those Speakers.
I read that using “Side Speakers” is the technically correct setting for 5.1. Unfortunately, connecting my Speakers in the “Side” connector with a 5.1 config never worked.
As explained above, my trick was to plug my Rear Speakers as Side Speakers instead, and use a 7.1 config with rear speakers disabled… It works for playing 5.1 movies with MPC-HC or Windows Media Center for example, but not when using Plex Home Theater 🙁
I can now play 5.1 movies with a 5.1 config (instead of 7.1) and get sound via the Side Speakers. And icing on the cake, I don’t ear the crackling noise anymore, even without the trick presented above 😛
I was missing a good microphone on my PC. And googling for that on the web, I actually found many headsets with a microphone. I have already 3 headphones at home… but none with support for high-fidelity, multi-channel Dolby audio. So, I did ask one to Santa Claus : the Corsair Vengeance 2100.
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Corsair Vengeance 2100
I read a few serious reviews on that headset such as this one before concluding that it would fit my needs and expectations:
A wireless headset.
Closed
Circumaural
With a really good microphone with noise cancellation.
Cheaper than 150€
With enough positive (true/serious/motivated) reviews on the web
With a simple and light configuration interface (not like Realtek stuff)
And I am very far from disappointed 😛
Specifications
Headphones:
Frequency Response: 20Hz to 20kHz
Impedance: 32 Ohms @ 1kHz
Sensitivity: 105dB (+/-3dB)
Drivers: 50mm
USB power consumption: 500mA
Connector: USB Type A
Wireless range: up to 12m (I was not able to test more than 12m as my corridor is not long enough)
Battery life: Up to 10 hours
Microphone:
Type: Unidirectional noise-cancelling condenser with adjustable, rotating boom
Impedance: 2.2k Ohms
Frequency Response: 100Hz to 10kHz
Sensitivity: -37dB (+/-3dB)
It took me a few hours, watching movies or playing games, to find the very best position on the head/ears as I am not used (anymore) to headphones. But with that adjustment, it’s really comfortable although used for hours.
The main issue, as often with circumaural headphones, is that it is not designed to be used with glasses and especially not with 3D glasses which are thicker than standard glasses. It can even be bloody uncomfortable if like me you keep your standard glasses under the 3D glasses. The most valid option IMO would be to use the 3D glasses with a supra-oral headset, but I dislike those. Note that my nVidia 3D Vision 2 glasses have an increased flexibility to precisely ensure a better fit with gaming headphone (And I have to say that this is true as they are not uncomfortable with my good old Sennheiser HDR 65 – but this one is not a 7.1 headphone). But with the Corsair Vengeance, it’s not great.
The quality of the microphone is really good. For testing purpose, you can ear yourself by ticking an option “Microphone check” in the configuration pane of the headset – this one must be downloaded from the corsair website and is really simple to use (There is no CD or user manual delivered with the headset):
Corsair Vengeance Config
If you listen to music while talking to a friend, he will not ear it although you push the volume quite high… And you will still ear your friend :D. The unidirectional noise-canceling seems to be very efficient based on the feedback I got about the quality.
The microphone may be bent in order to come closer to the user’s mouth as the boom is flexible.
There is no switch to mute the microphone, but it will turn off automatically once one swings it all the way upwards.
As far as I am concerned, I keep “Source Type” on 7.1 and click on the blue “power” button to enable the Dolby Surround (a virtual surround as there are actually only two speakers). Doing so, it displays “Now playing”: “7.1 surround” and I can indeed really feel to 3D audio environment. From my own point of view, the audio performance is really impressive 😛 not only in games and movies, but also for stereo music. I am right now listening the Trance Top 1000 – 2013 and I really like the surround effect added on such kind of stereo sources. It makes the sound a bit “softer” (it’s not my purpose to become deaf anyway) but you are immerse in the music. Otherwise (without the Dolby effect, the sound seems to come from the top-front of the headphone – but is powerful !) Anyway, about sound quality, you have better read reviews written by specialist as I am not the best person to talk about audio.
I noticed for the first time when trying this headset that music played within Chrome (E.g.: via my Synology Audio Station), is stopped if I change any settings related to the “playback device” currently used. I have to refresh the page to restart the music. It’s not an issue for me as I keep usually always the same settings, but this can be quickly quite annoying. There is no such issue (sound switched off when changing playback device’s settings) when playing music within IE (at least IE 11.0).
After a few more tests with IE vs Chrome, I noticed that IE was up-mixing the stereo sources to fill all the speakers (although the “Speaker Fill” option was not enabled on the headset). That’s the reason why listening to stereo music sounds better within IE than within Chrome. But as a consequence, true 5.1 or 7.1 sources played within IE sounds like crap, the volume being over-boosted. This can fortunately be fixed by enabling the option “Speaker Fill” in the Enhancement tab of the Corsair’s Speaker Properties (Right click the systray speaker icon > Playback Devices > select the Speakers Corsair Veangeance 2100 Headset > Properties > Enhancement). I really don’t get it but IE seems to fill automatically all the virtual speakers of the headset even without that option enabled. And once the option is enabled, it does it better ?! I spent a few hours playing around with all accessible Speakers’ properties and noticed a similar “up-mix” effect within IE when using my Realtek on-board sound card and its 6.1 speakers as a playback device . A behavior that I don’t experience within Chrome although I keep the very same speaker’s settings.
You can also enable a “Loudness Equalization” if you like such an enhancement. Notice that those enhancements are not available from within the custom Corsair configuration pane.
If you want to test a true 5.1 sources within Chrome, when “Source Audio” is set on 5.1 or 7.1 in the Corsair Configuration pane, try the samples from this site: HTML5 AAC Audio Playback Tests – Multichannel.
If you want the ear how crap is the sound over-boosted by IE, when “Source Audio” is set on 5.1 or 7.1 in the Corsair Configuration pane, watch the video from this site: Dolby Digital Plus demo.
The headset is linked with the PC via a USB dongle that has better be connected with the USB extension cable provided with the headset. Doing so, it can be placed on top of the desk and offers a better coverage (useful if, listening music, you move sometimes in the room).
The volume is very easy to change thanks to the big inline volume controller. That was really a pain with my old Sennheiser as the control were not easy to locate with the finger once the headset on the head…
I used to buy the 3G USB dongle of Belgacom to surf for free on the web with my laptop during the weekends. It’s a Vodaphone dongle (a “HUAWEI Mobile Connect – 3G Modem” inside). I was just wondering if I could use it on my Fuhi Nabi II tablet. The answer is YES if your tablet is rooted!
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My Tablet, a Fuhu Nabi II, is running Android 4.0.4. It has Bluetooth and Wi-Fi but no 3G. Since a few weeks, I have a “Belgacom Internet Partout Maxi” subscription, including mobile internet for free during the whole week (You have to go into your “e-Services” to modify your current “Mobile Internet Free Weekend” subscription and activate the “Mobile Internet laptop” as mentioned here). That’s why I was motivated to try my Belgacom dongle on my tablet.
Next, I did add the Widget on the screen. At that time, you will see a status “Checking access” displayed by PPP Widget and you will be prompted to grant it root access. If you don’t grant it root access, you will see a status “No root access” displayed. I suggest you to re-add the widget on the screen and grant it access or you won’t be able to use it.
The status displayed next by PPP Widget should be No modem found”. Click on its “Configure” button to set the Belgacom parameters:
Acces Point Name: internet.proximus.be
Username: (keep it blank)
Password: (keep it blank)
Dialing string: (keep it unchanged: *99***1#)
Check and set PIN: checked
Pin Code: enter the pin code of the SIM plugged into the dongle
HTTP Proxy: (keep it bank)
Disable USB device sleep: unchecked
Auto-Start Connection: unchecked
Automatic Re-Connection: unchecked
Automatic device detection: checked
Manual port selection: unchecked
Then reboot the tablet to start from a clean situation. Once back:
Disable the Wi-Fi.
Connect a USB cable to the tablet. I did use an official Samsung USB adapter I bought for my Galaxy SII.
When you are prompted by PPP Widget to “open PPP Widget when this USB devices is connected”, select “Use by default for this USB device” and click OK.
Wait for a few seconds. If nothing happens, unplug and replug the dongle. You should soon see the following status displayed by PPP Widget:
Prepare device…
Seach for port…
Setup modem…
Disconnected (and the button “Connect” should now be enabled)
Now, The dongle’s led should blink “blue”.
The Connect button of the PPP Widget will become “enabled”. Click on that button. PPP Widget will display the status “Dialing out…”. If it fails to connect, the status “Disconnected” will displayed. Otherwise, you should see “Connected!” and the dongle’s led should stay fixed “blue”. Enjoy !
If it does not succeed to connect, check that the dongle is still working on your laptop. Running the application “Vodaphone Mobile Connect Lite” on your Laptop, you will possibly get more details like “Sim card not found”, … Notice: I tried to use the latest version of the application “Vodaphone Mobile Connect Lite” on my Laptop (Windows 8.1) but got a message like “This program as compatibility issues”. I tried to run the Compatibility Troubleshooter, but it didn’t find a solution. Finally, although the application could start anyway, it didn’t detect the dongle. So I would recommend to use the software version available on the key itself.
You can also enable the log within PPP Widget, via the Configure menu.
Notice: if your tablet goes to sleep mode, you will be “disconnected” and the dongle will restart to blink “green”. When the tablet waked up, you should see PPP widget trying to re-detect the dongle and setup the modem. If it succeeds, you will be able to click on “Connect”. Otherwise, to unplug and replug the dongle.
My blog is hosted at home on my NAS and accessed using the fully qualified domain name www.beatificabytes.be. Configuring adequately the Synology’s DNS service and my Buffalo router running DD-WRT, I can access it both from Internet and my Intranet using that url.
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To make my blog accessible from Internet, I have configured the “DDNS” service of my Synology. Thanks to this “DDNS” Service, “Synology” links a hostname like “myNas.Disktation.me” to the dynamic IP I get from my Internet Provider – currently “Belgacom”. Next, I have configured a CNAME “www.beatificabytes.be” at my Domain Provider “Servage.net” as an alias of this hostname “myNas.Disktation.me”.
My VDSL Modem being the device physically accessible with the dynamic IP obtained from my Internet Provider, it is configured to forward incoming Internet traffic to my Buffalo router. And this one is forwarding the traffic for my blog to my NAS.
It obviously works fine for accesses from Internet. But if I try to access my NAS with that hostname from my home network (my intranet), the VDSL Modem does not forward me to the NAS via the router. Instead, I am redirected by the DNS of my Internet Provider to a page (http://Intranet IP of my Modem/dns_error) displaying:
Your internet connection is up, please close your browser and restart it again.
Uw internetverbinding is hersteld, gelieve uw browser eerst te sluiten en
daarna opnieuw te starten.
Votre connection internet fonctionne correctement, veuillez fermer votre
navigateur et le redémarrer.
My previous solution was to define the hostname www.beatificabytes.be in the host file (under C:\Windows\System32\drivers\etc) of my PC. So, instead of being resolved into the dynamic IP got from my Internet Provider (reason why I was reaching my VDSL Modem), that hostname was resolved directly into the IP of my NAS.
Using the host file is however a real pain as it must be completed and maintained manually on all the devices. Also, it only works fine for Windows machines and not for my Phone, my Tablet, etc… So, I wanted a more global solution.
I could also simply configure my Buffalo Router to provide each DHCP client with the IP of the ppen DNS of Google (8.8.8.8. and 8.8.4..4) instead of the DNS of my Internet Provider.
But I was interested in testing the DNS Server package of Synology. And I found that it’s not that hard to configure it to resolve the hostname locally instead of querying the DNS of my Internet Provider.
First, configure the NAS like this:
Install and run the DNS Server Package via the Package Center
Open the DNS Server Panel via DSM Start > DNS Server
Select the “Zones” tab
Click on “Create” and select “Master Zone”
Select a “Domain type”: forward zone
In “Domain name”, enter the domain name used by the blog
In “Master DNS server”, enter the IP address of the NAS
Keep other settings as by default and click “Ok”.
Double click the new entry to edit its content. You should see two prefilled records respectively of type “A” and “NS”.
Click on “Create” and add a new record of type “A”
Name: (leave blank)
TTL: (use the default)
IP address: type the IP address of the NAS
Also add another record of type “A” with Name “www”.
And that’s it for the DNS Server configuration. I didn’t change anything else, including in the “Resolution” tab, …
Next, configure the DD-WRT like this:
Go to the tab Services
Set “Used Domain” = WAN
Set “LAN Domain” = Any name you want. It does not need to be the domain name of the blog. I am using my “Workgroup” (Yes, I still use a that)
Check that the NAS has a static IP configured in the “Static Leases” table
Set “DNSMasq” = Disabled
Go to the tab Setup > Basic Setup
Set “Connection Type” = Automatic Configuration – DHCP
Set “Router Name” = SomeName
Set “Hostname” = Same name as above
Set “Domain Name” = (I kept it blank as I am not really working with a domain at home)
Set “Local IP Address” = x.x.x.x (E.g.: 192.168.0.1)
Set “Subnet Mask” = 255.255.255.0
Set “Gateway” = local IP of the VDSL Modem (E.g.: 192.168.1.1)
Set “Local DNS” = local IP of my NAS
Set “DHCP Type” = DHCP Server
Set “DHCP Server” = Enabled
Set “Static DNS 1” = 0.0.0.0 (Later, I did set here the IP of my Adsl Modem which is configured to forward the DNS request to my Internet provider. I could also have use Google DNS: 8.8.8.8 or 8.8.4.4)
Set “Static DNS 2” = 0.0.0.0
Set “Static DNS 3” = 0.0.0.0
Set “WINS” = 0.0.0.0
Set “Use DNSMasq for DHCP” = unchecked
Set “Use DNSMasq for DNS” = unchecked
This is working for me but DNSMasq being disabled, there is no caching on the DNS name resolution or even on the NetBios name (DNSMasq can intelligently add DHCP leases to its DNS database, providing local name lookups for any DHCP client, static or dynamic). And solving names seems to me precisely quite slow for the Browsers. So, I decided to try to enable DSNMasq.
Back into the Tab “Services”,
Set “DNSMasq” = Enabled
Set “Local DNS” = Disabled (If I enable it, I lose access to the Synology DSN ?!)
Set “No DNS Rebind” = Enable
Set “Additional DNSMasq Options” = (I kept it blank but was hesitating to enforce a strict order on the DNS to be used to resolves name):
strict-order
dhcp-option=6,<NAS IP comes here>,8.8.8.8,8.8.4.4 (ex.: I use here the open DNS of Google).
Finally, in the tab Setup > Basic Setup
Set “Use DNSMasq for DHCP” = checked
Keep “Use DNSMasq for DNS” = unchecked (If I check it, I lose access to the Synology DSN ?!)
Set “DHCP-Authoritative” = checked.
I am actually not convinced this is correct and improving the resolution in any way. So,”to be continued”… But in the meantime, I can access my blog with its fully qualified domain name from both my Intranet and Internet and now a bit more about DNS configuration :p
Notice: You can have a lot of troubles while testing the various settings on the DD-WRT as many values are cached either on the Synology, or on your PC. Ideally, you should reboot all the devices after each change in the router settings. At least, reset the network interface of your NAS (telnet as root and execute /etc/rc.network restart) and renew your PC network settings (ipconfig /release and ipconfig /renew). Best would be to do that after a Router reboot (telenet as root and execute reboot)
There are many different models of basic and cheap remote controls for electrical outlets. I have some from Chacon (the Zen model). But this kind of remote is usually limited to max 4 sockets.
Power Outlets with remote control “Zen”
So, I am looking for something else.
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The best solution would be to control the sockets via Ethernet from a PC, an Android or an iOS. But as I don’t have an Ethernet plug next to each power outlet, I would love Devolo to develop a solution with support to switch on/off the power outlet via CPL… Unfortunately, they don’t have it (yet) 🙁
Belkin has a solution named WeMo, a Wi-Fi enabled Switch that lets you turn a power outlet on/off from anywhere using an Android or a iOS. It’s however quite expensive: ~50€ for one outlet.
Belkin WeMo
There are also solutions based on X10, but to simply remotely control power outlets, it’s over-killed IMO.
So a fallback solution, could be to combine a very old Devolo dLAN® 85 HSplus with a device like the EnerGenie EG-PMS2-LAN which is an advanced surge protector with power management features. It is possible to individually switch 4 sockets on/off via Ethernet (local network or Internet from a PC, an Android or an iOS), by timer schedule, or by programmable special events… I already have an old USB version of that device (it is more than 8 years old now but still supported on Windows 8.1)
EnerGenie EG-PMS2-LAN
An alternative to the EnerGenie device could be the NetIO 230B from Koukaam. It does also allow control from a PC/Android or iOS device. The command interface via http is well documented.
Koukaam NETIO-230B
I am however still not convinced… and really hope Devolo will do something :p
EDIT 01/04/2014 I wrote to DEVOLO and got an answer !!!
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I was far from expecting an answer but couldn’t resist to ask DEVOLO if something similar to the Belkin Wemo was planned for the coming months… If not, I was suggesting to introduce such a feature request to their R&D department…
I was actually surprised to quickly get an answer from their support team. DEVOLO has some plan that will probably offer what I want and much more at a democratic price (compared to the current product on the market).
EDIT 04/07/2015 I finally bought 10 Chacon Wi-Fi Neo, 25€ each, at MediaMarkt (Promo).
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More than one year after my email to Devolo, there is still no Home Control Solution in shops here. I can only see some products on German websites…
So, I finally decided to buy the Chacon Wi-Fi Neo solution (also sold with the name Ankuoo) which works quite well although not perfect. It’s indeed sometimes not easy to configure it for the first time. And sometimes, the scheduler doesn’t work as expected (turn on/off the device on schedule)…
Chacon WiFi Neo (Belgian version)
But to switch on/off a device remotely from a mobile device, it works very well!
Details here. (The Belgian version is not available anymore)
EDIT 07/06/2018 I have now replaced all my Chacon Wifi Neo by Somfy Plugs that can be controlled with my Google Assistant via the Somfy Tahoma portal. I am indeed using that system since I have installed Somfy shutters and blinds at home.
EDIT 02/08/2019 I have now a set of Fibaro Plugs which can be controlled by my Z-wave bridge (installed for my Engie BOXX to control the power, gaz and water consumption at home). They are just amazing !!
Information possibly useful to understand, investigate and solve Wi-Fi issues.
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Here is a really interesting paper. I did copy the most useful part here:
0.5-2 Mbps: Is enough for chatting and mailing services, though it will slow down some content-heavy websites for users with a 20+ Mbps download bandwidth.
4-5 Mbps: Enough for handling all websites and basic video streaming.
20+ Mbps: Minimum required for HD streaming. Typical bitrate of a 720p iTunes TV show is 2-6Mbps, but routers need to compensate for dropouts, other connected clients and prebuffering…
50+ Mbps: Enough for 1080p movies and over-the-air backups.
Some routers have a “Power savings” mode to save a few milliwatts. Unfortunately reduces bandwidth disproportionately.
By doubling the distance between a router and a client, the throughput could shrink to one-third of its original value.
Water acts as a blockade for 2.42GHz signals: Get all objects that contain any form of liquids out of the way Including radiators, flower pots, aquarium, …
Also make sure that metal objects are not in the way of the router and the clients.
Smooth and shiny surfaces are prone to reflecting signals and thus either creating drops or massive signal problems.
Use a Wi-Fi heatmapping tool to measure the impact of distance, frequency changes and building structures on signal strength such as Heatmapper for Windows.
Motherboards are working in the “Gigahertz” spectrum. That “noise” is being picked up by built-in Wi-Fi transmitter and the higher that noise is, the more likely it is for your wireless adapter to lower bandwidth automatically. As CPUs these days clock dynamically, the Wi-Fi adapter needs to constantly adapt the link rate which not only causes a variation in Mbps but may also be the cause for dropped connections. Especially on laptops, the Wi-Fi adapter is often built close to the memory and CPU bus, which is a major source for problems.
Modern routers with “dualband” send two network signals: one at 2.4GHz which is crowded, and one at 5GHz, which is far less crowded and offers more channels. Keep both networks enabled on the router, connect the mobile devices to the 2.4 GHz network (as they other don’t supprt 5GHz) and enable only the 5GHz network on laptops and desktops.
If choosing the 5GHz frequency band is not possible on the laptops/desktops, limit the router to sending out signals at intervals of 20MHz. It might reduce overall throughput a bit, but it will give a stronger signal with less dropouts.
Reminder: all info above come form a paper of Sandro Villinger posted on TechWorld.
Other information I have collected:
WiFi Channels/Frequencies
Here in Europe, the frequency 2450 MHz is used by microwave ovens. Those could possibly disturb the Wi-Fi channels 9 and 10 that are both next to 2450 MHz. But if one does, it must be replaced immediately! Radiation that escapes from a microwave oven while it is in use may not exceed 5 mW (per cm2 at a distance of 5 cm). So, if your experience Wi-Fi issues when using a microwave oven, the leakage radiation is probably exceeding a lot that limit (It happens as some of my colleagues already experienced).
Frequencies from 2400 to 2450 MHz (Wi-Fi channels 1 to 8) are used by “radio amateur”. Those could impact the Wi-Fi signal as their radio signal goes up to 120 Watts while Wi-Fi is usually around ~18-30 mWatts.
Channels 1, 5, 9 and 13 are known to be used by some wireless transmitter and camera (at least here in Europe). Based on this info and those above, channel 13 seems to be the best candidate to avoid issues. InSSIDer is a tool for Windows that can be used to get information on channel usage in the area.
Use iPerf to measure the improvement of the Wi-Fi signal.
Before moving to the channel 13, my Wi-fi signal was lost every few seconds… Since it is on the channel 13, it’s stable as a rock!
I just bought 3 x Philips Fidelio SoundAvia wireless speaker AD7000W/12 with AirPlay. This model is must cheaper than any other AirPlay device and fully compatible with my Synology DS209+ running the Audio Station of DSM 4.2.
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Philips Fidelio AD7000W/12
I paid only 109€ (instead of the official price: 149€) for this device, which is reported as a good one (Look for reviews on the web). It’s especially much cheaper than any other devices except the Philips DS3800W/10. But this last one, which actually used to be more expansive than the AD7000W/12 in the past, is not as good although better designed. I took 3 AD7000W/12 (for the price of one single Soundlink Air, the cheapest Bose AirPlay device). I will use them respectively in the bathroom, in the kitchen and in my room.
It’s perfect for a Synology as there is not useless feature, like a docking for iStuff that don’t need, no remote control as I have my mobile phone, etc… So I paid only for what I really need: a basic AirPlay Speaker.
Take note that there is no need for an iPad, iPod or iPhone to configure the Philips Fidelio AD7000W/12. It’s presumed to be configurable auto-magically via WPS but I didn’t succeed to do so (I.e.: using the PBC – Push-Button Configuration – which is the WiFi setup button on the back of the device). Fortunately, it is really easy to configure the AD7000W/12 with a browser from any wireless client device such as a tablet, a laptop, a mobile phone, …
Notice: when unwrapping the device, on the connectors at the back of device, there is a sticker explaining that one has to push the physical WiFi setup button for 5 sec to configure the network for the first time. This could be confusing if you read next the Quick Guide. Indeed, this one explains two ways to connect the device to the WiFi router: a first method using WPS and a second method using an iStuff. In both cases, you have to press the physical WiFi setup button. But the mistake would be to press this button for 5 seconds when using the WPS method. It must only be pressed for 5 seconds if you want to use the second method. So, here is my experience:
Switch on the device. The button is on the back, close to the top, next to the Volume + and – buttons.
On the back too, there is a green led blinking rapidly in the middle of the WiFi setup button, at the bottom, on the right of the USB connector. Wait for 35 sec until it starts to blink slowly. The device is then ready to be configured.
To connect the AD7000W/12 to a WiFi router using a browser (Connect the devices one by one if you have several):
Press the WiFi setup button for 5 sec (= blinks 5 times). The led will then start to blink alternatively green and orange.
Soon after you should see, with your wireless client device, a new opened WiFi network named like Philips_Fidelio_AirPlay. Connect to that network.
Open a browser and navigate to 192.168.1.1 to access the network configuration page of the AD7000W/12. If you are using a laptop, althoug configured to get an IP via DHCP, you could have to reconfigure it to use a fixed IP like 192.168.1.2, gateway 192.168.1.1, mask 255.255.255.0. I had to do even after I didn’t succeed with a simple “IPConfig /renew”. With a mobile and a tablet, it worked out of the box.
In the configuration page, edit the name of the device to make it unique and select the SSID of the WiFi network on which it will have to connect. It works fine with my network configured to use WPA2.
Type the Passphrase of the WiFi network and Apply the configuration.
The led will restart to blink rapidly in green.
As soon as device is connected on the selected WiFi network, it produces a clear “Beep” sound and the led stops blinking.
Philips Fidelio Configuration
To connect the device using WPS:
Press the WPS button on your WiFi router. It has better be configured to use WPA2
Press the WiFi setup button on your device (a simple click of less than 1 sec). The led will start to blink alternatively red, green and orange.
Wait for up to 2 minutes. The device should auto-magically connect on the WiFi router and produce a clear “Beep” sound once connected.
This second approach didn’t work for me ?!
As soon as the Philips Fidelio AD7000W/12 is connected on the WiFi network, it becomes available as a target device for the Synology Audio Station (either in the Web UI or in the Apps for mobile). One can see targets like “XXX( DLNA)”, “XXX (AirPlay)” and “Multiple AirPlay Device” where XXX is the name you gave to the device (“Philips Fidelio ####” by default). All those targets work but you will possibly have to be patient for the music to arrive with DLNA targets (?). I takes a few seconds more than with AirPlay on my infra.
If you don’t want to see the speaker as both an AirPlay device and a DLNA device, you must tick “Do not Search for DLNA devices” in the “options” tab of your Audio Station’s settings.
Notice that the feature “Multiple AirPlay Device” only works if turned on from Audio Station “browser based”. It means that you must first select that target in the Audio Station’s web based UI. You will then be prompted to select which AirPlay devices must be used. Once this is done, you can use the “Multiple AirPlay Device” target also within the Audio Station Apps for tablets and mobiles. There is no support (today) to select via the mobile App which devices are part of the target “Multiple AirPlay Device”.
Notice also that selecting the target device is really easy on a mobile phone via the App. First select the music to be played in a library. Then, on the next screen you will be able to select the target:
Audio Station Apps
For an unknown reason, it’s not as obvious with the App on my tablet ? To select the target on my table I have indeed to open the settings of the App. This is really not convenient at all!
Notice finally that each device has its own queue. So you can then switch between target devices and manage their queues independently.
